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Applications of natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) in topical formulations
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O crescente interesse por cosméticos sustentáveis, seguros e eficazes impulsionou a necessidade de matérias-primas inovadoras que cumpram as normas ambientais e regulamentares. Assim, os solventes eutéticos naturais profundos (NADES) surgiram como uma alternativa sustentável aos solventes convencionais devido à sua não toxicidade, biodegradabilidade e biocompatibilidade. Considerando isso, este projeto tem como objetivo investigar a aplicação de NADES em formulações tópicas, como champôs e emulsões O/W, para avaliar a sua segurança e eficácia em formulações tópicas. Foram desenvolvidos cinco NADES diferentes, que foram subsequentemente submetidos a uma caracterização físico-química detalhada, incluindo análises reológicas, texturais e superficiais, e depois incorporados em formulações de champô. Em comparação com os controlos, os champôs com NADES apresentaram melhor recuperação estrutural, atributos sensoriais melhorados e perfis de segurança in vitro aceitáveis, conforme determinado por ensaios MTT em queratinócitos HaCaT. Todos os cinco NADES foram testados como estabilizadores de emulsões O/W. No entanto, após sete dias, todas as emulsões apresentaram separação de fases, indicando que os NADES devem ser combinados com emulsionantes convencionais para estabilidade a longo prazo. O papel dos NADES como solventes de extração ecológicos também foi estudado, utilizando subprodutos de tremoço. Através de ensaios como DPPH, FRAP e TPC, foi possível determinar a atividade antioxidante e quantificar o teor de compostos fenólicos dos extratos resultantes das extrações NADES. Foram desenvolvidos testes de inibição da elastase neutrofílica humana (HNE) e citotoxicidade para determinar a segurança e a eficácia dos extratos. O extrato com melhor desempenho foi incorporado em emulsões O/W, que foram submetidas a testes estruturais, reológicos, microscópicos e de estabilidade abrangentes. As emulsões apresentaram tamanho de gotículas, textura e desempenho de armazenamento favoráveis, mantendo a segurança e a bioatividade. Este projeto destaca a multifuncionalidade dos NADES em dermocosméticos, servindo como solventes ecológicos, modificadores de textura e transportadores de compostos bioativos, ao mesmo tempo que se alinha com os princípios da química verde e da economia circular. O uso de subprodutos agroindustriais, como resíduos de tremoço, aumenta a sustentabilidade, reforçando o potencial dos NADES na criação de cosméticos inovadores e ambientalmente responsáveis.
The rising interest in sustainable, safe, and effective cosmetics has boosted the need for innovative raw materials that comply with environmental and regulatory standards. Thus, natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) have emerged as a sustainable alternative to conventional solvents due to their non-toxicity, biodegradability, and biocompatibility. Considering this, this project aims to investigate the application of NADES in topical formulations, such as shampoos and O/W emulsions, to assess their safety and efficacy in topical formulations. Five different NADES were developed, which were subsequently subjected to detailed physicochemical characterization, including rheological, textural, and surface analyses, and then incorporated into shampoo formulations. Compared to the controls, shampoos with NADES showed better structural recovery, improved sensory attributes, and acceptable in vitro safety profiles, as determined by MTT assays in HaCaT keratinocytes. All five NADES were tested as stabilizers of O/W emulsions. However, after seven days, all emulsions showed phase separation, indicating that NADES must be combined with conventional emulsifiers for long-term stability. The role of NADES as eco-friendly extraction solvents was also studied, using lupin by-products. Using assays such as DPPH, FRAP, and TPC, it was possible to determine the antioxidant activity and quantify the phenolic compound content of the extracts resulting from NADES extractions. Human neutrophil elastase (HNE) inhibition and cytotoxicity tests were developed to determine the safety and efficacy of the extracts. The extract that performed best was incorporated into O/W emulsions, which were subjected to comprehensive structural, rheological, microscopic, and stability tests. The emulsions showed favorable droplet size, texture, and storage performance, maintaining safety and bioactivity. This project highlights the multifunctionality of NADES in dermocosmetics, serving as ecological solvents, texture modifiers, and carriers of bioactive compounds, while aligning with green chemistry and circular economy principles. The use of agro-industrial by-products, such as lupin residues, enhances sustainability, reinforcing the potential of NADES in creating innovative and environmentally responsible cosmetics.
The rising interest in sustainable, safe, and effective cosmetics has boosted the need for innovative raw materials that comply with environmental and regulatory standards. Thus, natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) have emerged as a sustainable alternative to conventional solvents due to their non-toxicity, biodegradability, and biocompatibility. Considering this, this project aims to investigate the application of NADES in topical formulations, such as shampoos and O/W emulsions, to assess their safety and efficacy in topical formulations. Five different NADES were developed, which were subsequently subjected to detailed physicochemical characterization, including rheological, textural, and surface analyses, and then incorporated into shampoo formulations. Compared to the controls, shampoos with NADES showed better structural recovery, improved sensory attributes, and acceptable in vitro safety profiles, as determined by MTT assays in HaCaT keratinocytes. All five NADES were tested as stabilizers of O/W emulsions. However, after seven days, all emulsions showed phase separation, indicating that NADES must be combined with conventional emulsifiers for long-term stability. The role of NADES as eco-friendly extraction solvents was also studied, using lupin by-products. Using assays such as DPPH, FRAP, and TPC, it was possible to determine the antioxidant activity and quantify the phenolic compound content of the extracts resulting from NADES extractions. Human neutrophil elastase (HNE) inhibition and cytotoxicity tests were developed to determine the safety and efficacy of the extracts. The extract that performed best was incorporated into O/W emulsions, which were subjected to comprehensive structural, rheological, microscopic, and stability tests. The emulsions showed favorable droplet size, texture, and storage performance, maintaining safety and bioactivity. This project highlights the multifunctionality of NADES in dermocosmetics, serving as ecological solvents, texture modifiers, and carriers of bioactive compounds, while aligning with green chemistry and circular economy principles. The use of agro-industrial by-products, such as lupin residues, enhances sustainability, reinforcing the potential of NADES in creating innovative and environmentally responsible cosmetics.
Descrição
Tese de mestrado, Ciências Biofarmacêuticas, 2025, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia.
Palavras-chave
204141508 NADES Sustainability Green solvents Shampoos Emulsions Teses de mestrado -2025