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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
A cultura manifesta se c ontinuamente como um terreno pautado pela complexidade
e a sua análise tem lugar ao nível de vários objetos, nomeadamente na Moda, que
assume um quadro de destaque enquanto sistema prescritor de atitudes e
comportamentos. Perante um contexto de maleabilida de cultural, torna se
necessário tomar decisões estratégicas ancoradas numa análise crítica e contínua
da sociedade e das suas representações. Para isso, os Estudos de Tendências
orientam a pesquisa de movimentos socioculturais através da identificação e g estão
de padrões de significados, úteis para a compreensão das dinâmicas culturais.
Nesta pesquisa, a cultura reflete se no prisma semiótico que contribui para
a análise de significados presentes na produção cultural. Em paralelo, a análise de
tendências o bjetiva identificar o fluxo de tendências que se relaciona com essa
produção. Isto facilita uma leitura contextualizada do caso de estudo, mais
especificamente os desfiles unificados de moda da Gucci que, enquanto espetáculos
de representação, compõem um q uadro de narrativas variadas. Os desfiles assumem
um papel de destaque na moda enquanto produção cultural e representação de
mentalidades. Nesta pesquisa eles são abordados enquanto objetos de estudo para
compreender as dinâmicas na cultura e de que modo a s tendências se materializam
no setor. Os desfiles também são estudados na tentativa de distanciar os conceitos
de ‘ e ‘ que, embora relacionados, possuem um corpo teórico
próprio e nem sempre estão relacionados.
Perante a necessidade de ger ir marcas na ótica de mudanças contínuas de
comportamentos, apresentamos uma investigação que cria um modelo analítico e
que objetiva contribuir nesse sentido. Também procuramos orientar a pesquisa de
tendências numa perspetiva de arqueologia, ou seja, num a abordagem diacrónica,
contribuindo para a criação de um roteiro de leitura de signos manifestações de
tendências. Os resultados desta pesquisa trazem um potencial de aplicação
relevante do modelo no contexto da moda, no setor da cultura e no branding, pois
este contribui para uma gestão e análise de tendências socioculturais. Os resultados
derivados estão relacionados com a leitura e interpretação sígnica de padrões complexos
na produção cultural de moda, de forma a gerar pistas estratégicas para
a com preensão de um cenário cultural. Esta proposta cria uma articulação
conceptual metodológica que pode ser replicada em outras pesquisas, contribuindo
para o campo de inquérito formado pelos Estudos de Tendências, de Cultura e de
Moda.
Culture continually manifests itself as a field based on complexity I ts analysis has an impact in several areas, namely in f ashion, which assumes a prominent position as a system that prescribes attitudes and behaviours. Facing cultural malleability in daily life it is necessary to make strategic decisions anchored in a critical and continuous analysis of society and its representations. For this, Trend Studies guides the research of socio cultural movements through the identification and management of patterns o f meaning. This is particularly useful for understanding cultural dynamics. In this research, culture is reflected in the semiotic perspective, which contributes to the analysis of these patterns in cultural production based on trend research This facilit ates a contextualized understanding of the case study, more specifically the unified fashion shows that make up a framework of diverse narratives. Fashion shows take on a prominent role as cultural production and representation of ideas They are seen as a reflection of cultural movements and as objects that materialize trends Their study is in an attempt to distance the concepts of ' and ' which have their own conceptual theory and are not always directly related. This study creates a conce ptual methodological articulation that can be replicated in other research, contributing to the field of inquiry formed by Trend Studies, Cultural Studies and Fashion Studies. The main result here presented is an analytical model that contributes to cultur al analysis and brand management. We present an approach to the trend archaeology process through the creation of a script for reading signs (manifestations of trends and from a diachronic perspective). The se outputs inform the reading and interpretation o f sign s to decode complex patterns in cultural production. This stimulates the creation of strategic readings for understanding cultural scenarios. The model that results from this research is relevant in the cultural sector, in fashion and branding, as it is a contribution to the management of these areas through the analysis of socio cultural trends.
Culture continually manifests itself as a field based on complexity I ts analysis has an impact in several areas, namely in f ashion, which assumes a prominent position as a system that prescribes attitudes and behaviours. Facing cultural malleability in daily life it is necessary to make strategic decisions anchored in a critical and continuous analysis of society and its representations. For this, Trend Studies guides the research of socio cultural movements through the identification and management of patterns o f meaning. This is particularly useful for understanding cultural dynamics. In this research, culture is reflected in the semiotic perspective, which contributes to the analysis of these patterns in cultural production based on trend research This facilit ates a contextualized understanding of the case study, more specifically the unified fashion shows that make up a framework of diverse narratives. Fashion shows take on a prominent role as cultural production and representation of ideas They are seen as a reflection of cultural movements and as objects that materialize trends Their study is in an attempt to distance the concepts of ' and ' which have their own conceptual theory and are not always directly related. This study creates a conce ptual methodological articulation that can be replicated in other research, contributing to the field of inquiry formed by Trend Studies, Cultural Studies and Fashion Studies. The main result here presented is an analytical model that contributes to cultur al analysis and brand management. We present an approach to the trend archaeology process through the creation of a script for reading signs (manifestations of trends and from a diachronic perspective). The se outputs inform the reading and interpretation o f sign s to decode complex patterns in cultural production. This stimulates the creation of strategic readings for understanding cultural scenarios. The model that results from this research is relevant in the cultural sector, in fashion and branding, as it is a contribution to the management of these areas through the analysis of socio cultural trends.
