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Draping como processo criativo do vestido de noiva
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Resumo(s)
Com o gosto e o interesse pela área do design de vestidos de noiva, bem
como a ambição de obter experiência no ramo, tive oportunidade de realizar um
estágio curricular no atelier de Iza Van.
Iza Van dedica-se à criação e confeção de vestidos de noivas feitos por
medida, com atendimento personalizado. A designer cria vestidos exclusivos
para cada uma das suas clientes / noivas – não criando dois vestidos iguais. A
técnica mais utilizada pela designer é o draping aplicado ao design. Esta técnica
consiste no processo de criar diretamente no manequim com tecido. De
imediato, o designer visualiza tridimensionalmente o que idealizou. Esta técnica
e/ou este processo de criar é um dos motivos fulcrais para ter realizado o estágio
académico neste atelier. Ao longo de três meses, aprofundei o modo como Iza
Van trabalha diretamente no manequim.
Deste modo, o tópico investigativo recaiu no processo de design do
vestido de noiva e na envolvência do cliente no processo criativo, de modo a
concluir se o draping oferece benefícios para a criação e porventura para a
confeção.
O enquadramento teórico começa por entender a importância do vestido
de noiva e o seu papel em Portugal, bem como o Branco, enquanto cor
tradicional e simbólica do vestido usado pela noiva.
De seguida, fez-se um breve estudo sobre as “Modistas e Costureiras – As
artesãs da moda”. Foram elas que constituíram uma parte importante da história
da moda em Portugal, acrescentando à evolução do draping uma prática
preciosa, no que diz respeito ao processo.
Por último relatei o meu percurso durante o estágio académico – o meu
acompanhamento e observação dos métodos de trabalho, a relação com o
cliente e a chegada ao resultado final: o vestido de noiva.
ABSTRACT: I had the chance to complete an internship in Iza Van’s atelier, something that was fuelled by my passion and interest for the design of wedding dresses area, as well as my ambition to improve my overall knowledge in the subject. Iza Van is a designer who works in creating and making female wedding dresses custom made. The designer creates unique dresses for each one of their clients/brides – not creating two equal dresses. The most used technique by the designer is draping applied to design. This technique consists in creating directly in the manikin with fabric. With this technique, the designer can also have an immediate three-dimensional view of the project. This technique/process of creating is one of the main reasons why I chose this academical internship in Iza Van’s atelier. Throughout three months I deepened my knowledge in the way Iza Van works directly in the manikin. Therefore, my research topic was focused on the process of wedding dress and in wrapping the clients in the creative process, in order to conclude if the draping offers benefits for the creation as well as for the making. The theorical framework begins by understanding the importance of the wedding dress and its role in Portugal, as well as the White, as traditional and symbolic colour used by brides. After this, a brief study about “Dressmakers and Seamstresses – fashion artisans”. It was them who had a huge contribute for the fashion history in Portugal, adding to the evolution of draping a valuable practice. Lastly, I reported my course throughout the academical internship – my thoughts and opinions about the working methods, my relationship with the client and the reaching of the result: the wedding dress.
ABSTRACT: I had the chance to complete an internship in Iza Van’s atelier, something that was fuelled by my passion and interest for the design of wedding dresses area, as well as my ambition to improve my overall knowledge in the subject. Iza Van is a designer who works in creating and making female wedding dresses custom made. The designer creates unique dresses for each one of their clients/brides – not creating two equal dresses. The most used technique by the designer is draping applied to design. This technique consists in creating directly in the manikin with fabric. With this technique, the designer can also have an immediate three-dimensional view of the project. This technique/process of creating is one of the main reasons why I chose this academical internship in Iza Van’s atelier. Throughout three months I deepened my knowledge in the way Iza Van works directly in the manikin. Therefore, my research topic was focused on the process of wedding dress and in wrapping the clients in the creative process, in order to conclude if the draping offers benefits for the creation as well as for the making. The theorical framework begins by understanding the importance of the wedding dress and its role in Portugal, as well as the White, as traditional and symbolic colour used by brides. After this, a brief study about “Dressmakers and Seamstresses – fashion artisans”. It was them who had a huge contribute for the fashion history in Portugal, adding to the evolution of draping a valuable practice. Lastly, I reported my course throughout the academical internship – my thoughts and opinions about the working methods, my relationship with the client and the reaching of the result: the wedding dress.
Descrição
Dissertação de Mestrado em Design, com a especialização em Moda apresentada na Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa para obtenção do grau de Mestre.
Palavras-chave
Vestido de noiva Costureiras Modistas Draping Wedding dress Seamstresses Dressmakers
Contexto Educativo
Citação
CARDEIRA, Ana Filipa Fialho - Draping como processo criativo do vestido de noiva : estágio no atelier Iza Van.- Lisboa: FA, 2019. Dissertação de Mestrado.
Editora
Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Arquitetura