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Publicação
Design têxtil e moda
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Orientador(es)
Resumo(s)
No âmbito da estrutura curricular do curso de Mestrado em Design de Moda, surge o
presente trabalho teórico de investigação para o desenvolvimento da dissertação, como
forma de conclusão dos estudos.
Escolhendo como ponto de partida a problemática da poluição gerada pela utilização de
corantes sintéticos com fins de aplicação nas tecnologias de tingimento e estampagem têxtil,
surge a necessidade de encontrar alternativas aos mesmos. Aliando desta forma a biologia
com a tecnologia (biotecnologia) aplicando-a ao design de vestuário e da moda, mais
especificamente à indústria têxtil associada à prática da fast fashion conseguimos obter
soluções inovadoras nesta área, que se prendem com o desenvolvimento de bio corantes,
através de microrganismos (fungos, algas e bactérias).
Destas alternativas surgem as questões que impulsionaram o estudo de investigadores,
cientistas e designers e que conduziram a procurar e analisar se esta será a única e mais
sustentável opção aos tingimentos e estampagens relativamente aos corantessintéticos. Ao
longo de todo o trabalho são analisadas distintas possibilidades de, num curto ou médio
prazo, as tecnologias de tingimento e estampagem se efetuarem através de microrganismos
(fungos, leveduras, bactérias, tornando-se numa tecnologia aplicada e viável a nível
industrial têxtil. Foram ainda analisados quais os impactos que os tingimentos através de
microrganismos (fungos, leveduras, bactérias) poderão vir a ter na indústria têxtil, ambiente
e sociedade.
Com o objetivo de responder a estas questões, foi realizado este trabalho de investigação,
onde através de uma metodologia mista, foram estudadas e apresentadas experiências já
efetuadas por investigadores na área da biotecnologia e tingimento têxtil e são propostas
algumas alternativas de bio corantes através da criação de uma tabela guia e de painéis de
tendências que comprovam a possibilidade de aplicação destes métodos nasindústriastêxtil
do vestuário e da moda.
ABSTRACT: Within the curricular structure of the Master's degree in Fashion Design, the present theoretical research work for the development of the dissertation emerges, as a way of concluding the studies. Choosing as a starting point the problem of pollution generated by the use of synthetic dyes for application in textile dyeing and printing technologies, the need arises to find alternatives to them. In this way, combining biology with technology (biotechnology) applying it to the design of clothing and fashion, more specifically to the textile industry associated with the practice of fast fashion, we were able to obtain innovative solutions in this area, related to the development of bio dyes, through microorganisms (fungi, algae and bacteria). From these alternatives arise the questions that led the study of researchers, scientists and designers and that led to the search and analysis of whether this will be the only and most sustainable option for dyeing and printing in relation to synthetic dyes. Throughout the work, different possibilities are analyzed for, in the short or medium term, dyeing and printing technologies to be carried out through microorganisms (fungi, yeasts, bacteria), becoming an applied and viable technology in textile industrial level. also analyzed what impacts the dyeing by microorganisms (fungi, yeasts, bacteria) may have on the textile industry, environment and society. In order to answer these questions, this research work was carried out where, through a mixed methodology, experiences already carried out by researchers in the area of biotechnology and textile dyeing were studied and some bio dyestuff alternatives are proposed through the creation a guide table and trend panels that prove the possibility of applying these methods in the textile, clothing and fashion industries.
ABSTRACT: Within the curricular structure of the Master's degree in Fashion Design, the present theoretical research work for the development of the dissertation emerges, as a way of concluding the studies. Choosing as a starting point the problem of pollution generated by the use of synthetic dyes for application in textile dyeing and printing technologies, the need arises to find alternatives to them. In this way, combining biology with technology (biotechnology) applying it to the design of clothing and fashion, more specifically to the textile industry associated with the practice of fast fashion, we were able to obtain innovative solutions in this area, related to the development of bio dyes, through microorganisms (fungi, algae and bacteria). From these alternatives arise the questions that led the study of researchers, scientists and designers and that led to the search and analysis of whether this will be the only and most sustainable option for dyeing and printing in relation to synthetic dyes. Throughout the work, different possibilities are analyzed for, in the short or medium term, dyeing and printing technologies to be carried out through microorganisms (fungi, yeasts, bacteria), becoming an applied and viable technology in textile industrial level. also analyzed what impacts the dyeing by microorganisms (fungi, yeasts, bacteria) may have on the textile industry, environment and society. In order to answer these questions, this research work was carried out where, through a mixed methodology, experiences already carried out by researchers in the area of biotechnology and textile dyeing were studied and some bio dyestuff alternatives are proposed through the creation a guide table and trend panels that prove the possibility of applying these methods in the textile, clothing and fashion industries.
Descrição
Dissertação de Mestrado em Design com a especialização em Design de Moda apresentada na Faculdade de Arquitetura da Universidade de Lisboa para obtenção do grau de Mestre.
Palavras-chave
Bio-corante Sustentabilidade Tingimentos por microorganismos Bio dye Sustainability Microorganism dyeing
Contexto Educativo
Citação
DUARTE, Ana Raquel da Silva - Design têxtil e moda : tingimento através de micro-organismos. - Lisboa : FA, 2021. Dissertação de Mestrado
Editora
Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Arquitetura