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Indumentária e Identidade : Os complementos metálicos de vestimenta na I Idade do Ferro do Sul de Portugal (sécs. VIII-VI/V a.n.e.)
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Resumo(s)
A indumentária desempenha um papel fundamental na construção de identidades individuais e coletivas, mas a sua expressão material é praticamente invisível no registo arqueológico, especialmente em contextos da I Idade do Ferro no sul de Portugal. Face à escassez de vestígios têxteis e ao esquematismo da iconografia, os complementos metálicos, nomeadamente fíbulas e fechos de cinturão, assumem-se como testemunhos privilegiados para (re)construir práticas de vestir e sistemas de representação social. Este trabalho propõe uma abordagem articulada destes objetos enquanto componentes materiais da indumentária e enquanto proxies culturais e identitários. A análise assenta em três vertentes principais: uma abordagem morfométrica, que permite avaliar a funcionalidade das peças em articulação com o vestuário; a análise contextual, que examina a presença destes elementos em contextos funerários, domésticos e votivos; e a exploração iconográfica, ainda que rarefeita, com o objetivo de verificar a existência de padrões de representação compatíveis com os dados materiais. Ao integrar estas dimensões, procura-se compreender de que modo as fíbulas e os fechos de cinturão foram utilizados, transformados e imbuídos de significado(s) pelas comunidades meridionais e «orientalizantes» da Idade do Ferro no território atualmente português. Pretende-se, assim, revelar as formas através das quais estes objetos participaram na construção visual e simbólica da identidade, explorando também a diversidade regional e as escolhas locais que desafiam leituras tipológicas rígidas. Este estudo contribui para aprofundar o conhecimento sobre a indumentária sidérica, valorizando o papel dos complementos metálicos de indumentária na teia complexa de relações sociais, culturais e tecnológicas do sudoeste peninsular.
Dress plays a fundamental role in the construction of individual and collective identities, but its material expression is practically invisible in the archaeological record, especially in the Iron Age contexts of southern Portugal. Given the scarcity of textile remains and the schematic nature of the iconography, metal complements, namely fibulae and belt buckles, are privileged testimonies for (re)constructing dress practices and systems of social representation. This dissertation proposes an articulated approach to these objects as material components of clothing and as cultural and identity proxies. The analysis is based on three main strands: a morphometric approach, which makes it possible to assess the functionality of the pieces in conjunction with the clothing; contextual analysis, which examines the presence of these elements in funerary, domestic and votive contexts; and the study of iconographic sources, albeit rare, with the aim of verifying the existence of patterns of representation compatible with the material data. Through the integration of these dimensions, the aim is to understand how fibulae and belt buckles were used, transformed and imbued with meaning(s) by the southern and "orientalizing" communities of the Iron Age in what is now Portuguese territory. The main objective is to reveal the ways in which these objects participated in the visual and symbolic construction of identity, while also exploring regional diversity and local choices that defy rigid typological readings. This study contributes to a deeper understanding of Iron Age dress, emphasising the role of metal fasteners in the complex web of social, cultural and technological relations in the south-west of the Iberian Peninsula.
Dress plays a fundamental role in the construction of individual and collective identities, but its material expression is practically invisible in the archaeological record, especially in the Iron Age contexts of southern Portugal. Given the scarcity of textile remains and the schematic nature of the iconography, metal complements, namely fibulae and belt buckles, are privileged testimonies for (re)constructing dress practices and systems of social representation. This dissertation proposes an articulated approach to these objects as material components of clothing and as cultural and identity proxies. The analysis is based on three main strands: a morphometric approach, which makes it possible to assess the functionality of the pieces in conjunction with the clothing; contextual analysis, which examines the presence of these elements in funerary, domestic and votive contexts; and the study of iconographic sources, albeit rare, with the aim of verifying the existence of patterns of representation compatible with the material data. Through the integration of these dimensions, the aim is to understand how fibulae and belt buckles were used, transformed and imbued with meaning(s) by the southern and "orientalizing" communities of the Iron Age in what is now Portuguese territory. The main objective is to reveal the ways in which these objects participated in the visual and symbolic construction of identity, while also exploring regional diversity and local choices that defy rigid typological readings. This study contributes to a deeper understanding of Iron Age dress, emphasising the role of metal fasteners in the complex web of social, cultural and technological relations in the south-west of the Iberian Peninsula.
Descrição
Mestrado em Arqueologia.