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Exploration of the hair combing forces resulting from different cosmetic treatments
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O cabelo é um dos aspetos mais importantes do ser humano devido às suas características fisiológicas, culturais, psicológicas e estéticas. O cabelo é sujeito a diversos cuidados, incluindo a lavagem, o pentear, a escovagem, a secagem, a modelagem e os tratamentos químicos e físicos. Naturalmente, os cabelos ficam danificados, especialmente se não for feita uma rotina de cuidados capilares adequada. Ao pentear, uma das técnicas de cuidado realizadas diariamente, é importante avaliar se novos produtos podem facilitar este processo, evitando a quebra dos fios de cabelo. Neste trabalho foram estudadas as forças necessárias para pentear os fios de cabelo. Inicialmente avaliou-se qual seria a força necessária para manter uma velocidade constante do pente de 40mm/s. Ao ser aplicada mais força, esta demonstrava que o pente encontrava mais nós ou nós mais fortes, inviabilizando o pentear. Foram realizadas experiências em cabelo seco e molhado para determinar se o inchaço dos fios capilares, com os tratamentos utilizados, teria influência no processo de pentear. Para além destes ensaios, foram aplicados nos cabelos tratamentos com várias substâncias, nomeadamente o ácido málico e um péptido. O uso de um alfa-hidroxiácido, ácido málico, foi aplicado em cabelos virgens, cabelos que não foram submetidos a nenhum tratamento químico permanente e em cabelos descolorados. Para além disto, num segundo ciclo de testes, foi adicionado um péptido para verificar se a interação com o ácido málico beneficiaria ou prejudicaria a ação do ácido málico isoladamente. Os resultados demonstram que geralmente se aplica mais força ao processo de pentear, mostrando que o uso dos tratamentos não facilitou o processo de pentear. Além disto, foi também estudada a força de tensão e extensão dos cabelos virgens e descolorados. Para isto, os fios capilares molhados foram colocados em molduras com cortes longitudinais para permitir a extensão do fio capilar até ao ponto de rutura. Foi possível observar um aumento significativo da extensibilidade nos cabelos virgens e descolorados, enquanto que os dados da força de tensão foram inconclusivos. Este tema necessita de ser mais aprofundado no futuro, dado que o número de amostras foi reduzido e as amostras testadas eram de apenas cabelos caucasóides, sendo importante aumentar o número de amostras testadas e os tipos de cabelos testados.
Hair is one of the most important aspects of the human being due to its physiological, cultural, psychological and aesthetically characteristics. Hair is subjected to grooming, including washing, combing, brushing, drying, styling, chemical and physical treatments. Naturally, hair will become more damaged especially if not appropriate hair care routine is made. Being combing one of the most grooming techniques done daily, it is important to assess if new hair care products can facilitate the combing experience, avoiding hair breakage. In the combing experience, it was studied what force would be necessary to apply in order to keep a constant velocity of 40mm/s. If more force was applied, it explained that the comb encountered either more tangles or stronger tangles, thus the hair was not easier to comb. Experiments were conducted in both dry and wet conditions to determine if the hair swelling, carrying the treatments applied, would play a crucial role. It was analysed the use of an alpha hydroxy acid, Malic Acid, on both virgin hair, hair that was not subjected to any permanent chemical treatment, and bleached hair. Also, in a second cycle of testing, a peptide was added in order to see if the interaction with the Malic Acid would benefit or impair the action of Malic Acid alone. The results showcase that more force for the combing process was generally applied, pointing out that the use of the treatments did not ease the combing process. Furthermore, it was studied the tensile strength and extensibility of the virgin and bleached hair. For this, hair fibres were placed in cases with longitudinal cuts to allow the extensibility of the hair fibre until the breakage point, under wet condition. It was possible to see a significant increase of the extensibility in both virgin and bleached hair whilst the tensile force data was inconclusive. The topic needs to be further developed in the future since the number of samples was small. Also, as all tested tresses were Caucasoid hair, it is important to increase both the number of tested hair tresses and the types of hair tested.
Hair is one of the most important aspects of the human being due to its physiological, cultural, psychological and aesthetically characteristics. Hair is subjected to grooming, including washing, combing, brushing, drying, styling, chemical and physical treatments. Naturally, hair will become more damaged especially if not appropriate hair care routine is made. Being combing one of the most grooming techniques done daily, it is important to assess if new hair care products can facilitate the combing experience, avoiding hair breakage. In the combing experience, it was studied what force would be necessary to apply in order to keep a constant velocity of 40mm/s. If more force was applied, it explained that the comb encountered either more tangles or stronger tangles, thus the hair was not easier to comb. Experiments were conducted in both dry and wet conditions to determine if the hair swelling, carrying the treatments applied, would play a crucial role. It was analysed the use of an alpha hydroxy acid, Malic Acid, on both virgin hair, hair that was not subjected to any permanent chemical treatment, and bleached hair. Also, in a second cycle of testing, a peptide was added in order to see if the interaction with the Malic Acid would benefit or impair the action of Malic Acid alone. The results showcase that more force for the combing process was generally applied, pointing out that the use of the treatments did not ease the combing process. Furthermore, it was studied the tensile strength and extensibility of the virgin and bleached hair. For this, hair fibres were placed in cases with longitudinal cuts to allow the extensibility of the hair fibre until the breakage point, under wet condition. It was possible to see a significant increase of the extensibility in both virgin and bleached hair whilst the tensile force data was inconclusive. The topic needs to be further developed in the future since the number of samples was small. Also, as all tested tresses were Caucasoid hair, it is important to increase both the number of tested hair tresses and the types of hair tested.
Descrição
Trabalho Final de Mestrado Integrado, Ciências Farmacêuticas, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia, 2019
Palavras-chave
Cabelo Pentear Ácido Málico Péptido Forças de Tensão e de Extensão. Mestrado Integrado - 2019