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Sunscreen formulation : the effect of different ingredients in emulsions
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A exposição excessiva à radiação ultravioleta acarreta riscos significativos para a saúde tais como o cancro da pele e o envelhecimento precoce. Os protetores solares desempenham um papel fundamental na proteção contra a radiação ultravioleta, no entanto, a sua eficácia não depende apenas do fator de proteção solar, mas também de fatores sensoriais. É sabido que quando a textura do protetor solar é desagradável na pele, os consumidores têm tendência a aplicar quantidades insuficientes. Para ultrapassar este problema, investigadores e fabricantes estão a trabalhar no sentido de criar produtos que ofereçam uma boa proteção solar acompanhada de uma boa experiência sensorial, incrementando a boa utilização desta categoria de cosméticos.
O objetivo principal deste estudo consistiu no desenvolvimento de formulações de protetores solares com boa experiência sensorial e com viscosidade semelhante à de protetores solares existentes no mercado. Para tal, manteve-se constante a concentração de quatro filtros UV selecionados e procedeu-se a alterações em categorias especificas de ingredientes tais como tensioativos, emolientes, modificadores de viscosidade e álcoois gordos, de modo a compreender o efeito destas alterações nas características de um protetor solar. Este processo foi crucial na criação de um protetor solar que oferecesse a experiência sensorial mais satisfatória possível.
As formulações foram caracterizadas com base na sua aparência visual, sensação pós-aplicação, pH e viscosidade. As formulações que não atenderam aos critérios estabelecidos foram excluídas de modo a garantir que apenas as formulações mais adequadas prosseguissem no processo de desenvolvimento.
Futuramente, determinações do fator de proteção solar devem ser realizadas de modo a avaliar como é que alterações nos ingredientes podem afetar os níveis de proteção solar. Para além disso, a reologia deve ser utilizada para estabelecer correlações entre ensaios in vitro e in vivo sensoriais, para os quais deverá ser elaborado um estudo de análise sensorial com voluntários humanos. A trajetória ascendente do mercado global de protetores solares assegura um futuro brilhante e otimista para a indústria, e por isso, deve ser explorado.
Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation carries significant health risks, such as skin cancer and premature aging. Sunscreens play a pivotal role in protecting against ultraviolet radiation but its effectiveness depends not just on the sun protection factor but also on sensory factors. It is known that when users find the sunscreen texture unpleasant on their skin, they tend to apply insufficient amounts. In order to address this problem, researchers are improving sunscreen formulations by trying to create sunscreens that offer both protection and an appealing sensory experience, enhancing the proper use of this category of cosmetics. The primary goal of this research was to formulate sunscreen emulsions with the viscosity of commercial sunscreens that had a good sensory feeling on the skin. In this process, the concentration of four chosen UV filters remained unchanged, while adjustments were introduced in specific ingredient categories, including surfactants, emollients, viscosity modifiers and fatty alcohols, in order to understand how these ingredient adjustments affect the overall characteristics of a sunscreen. This process contributes to the ultimate goal of creating a sunscreen that offers the most satisfying sensory experience possible. The formulations were characterized according to their visual appearance, post-application characteristics, pH levels, and viscosity. Those formulations that failed to meet the standards were excluded from further consideration, ensuring that only the most suitable formulations proceeded in the development process. In the future, further investigations can be conducted, including sun protection factor measurements in order to assess how changes in ingredients impact the sun protection factor levels. Furthermore, rheology should be used to establish correlations between in vitro and in vivo sensory tests, for which a sensory analysis study with human volunteers should be conducted. The positive and optimistic future of the global sunscreen market's growth trajectory is certainly worth further exploration.
Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation carries significant health risks, such as skin cancer and premature aging. Sunscreens play a pivotal role in protecting against ultraviolet radiation but its effectiveness depends not just on the sun protection factor but also on sensory factors. It is known that when users find the sunscreen texture unpleasant on their skin, they tend to apply insufficient amounts. In order to address this problem, researchers are improving sunscreen formulations by trying to create sunscreens that offer both protection and an appealing sensory experience, enhancing the proper use of this category of cosmetics. The primary goal of this research was to formulate sunscreen emulsions with the viscosity of commercial sunscreens that had a good sensory feeling on the skin. In this process, the concentration of four chosen UV filters remained unchanged, while adjustments were introduced in specific ingredient categories, including surfactants, emollients, viscosity modifiers and fatty alcohols, in order to understand how these ingredient adjustments affect the overall characteristics of a sunscreen. This process contributes to the ultimate goal of creating a sunscreen that offers the most satisfying sensory experience possible. The formulations were characterized according to their visual appearance, post-application characteristics, pH levels, and viscosity. Those formulations that failed to meet the standards were excluded from further consideration, ensuring that only the most suitable formulations proceeded in the development process. In the future, further investigations can be conducted, including sun protection factor measurements in order to assess how changes in ingredients impact the sun protection factor levels. Furthermore, rheology should be used to establish correlations between in vitro and in vivo sensory tests, for which a sensory analysis study with human volunteers should be conducted. The positive and optimistic future of the global sunscreen market's growth trajectory is certainly worth further exploration.
Descrição
Trabalho Final de Mestrado Integrado, Ciências Farmacêuticas, 2023, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia.
Palavras-chave
Ultraviolet radiation Sun protection factor Sunscreen Sensory experience Mestrado Integrado - 2023