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O consumo crítico de moda sustententável: significados justificações e práticas do vestuário em São Paulo
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Os ritmos de produção e consumo do capitalismo contemporâneo exaurem os recursos do
planeta, tanto na extração dos recursos naturais utilizados como nas matérias primas e na
contaminação causada pelos descartes da indústria. Estes desequilíbrios também impactam a
esfera social, resultado da pressão e velocidade impostas pela organização dos mercados, num
sistema baseado no crescimento exponencial insustentável em busca do lucro rápido. Um dos
campos onde esta realidade é bem visível é o da moda dirigida ao grande consumo de massas,
aquilo que se designa por ‘Fast Fashion’, caracterizada por uma produção rápida, grande
variedade de produtos e de baixa qualidade (Joy et al, 2012), onde não há uma preocupação
com os impactos nas esferas ambientais (como a utilização de produtos químicos agressivos e
consequente poluição dos solos e água) e sociais (como relações laborais problemáticas, e.g.
regimes de trabalho análogos à escravidão). A sustentabilidade tem sido trabalhada como uma
alternativa para mitigar tais impactos, através de uma perspectiva multidimensional que
abrange as esferas envolvidas nos processos produtivos e de consumo. Neste sentido, têm
surgido novas formas de organizar o campo da moda, nomeadamente através da moda
sustentável, cujos princípios vão muito além da ideia de produtos novos feitos a partir de
matérias-primas sustentáveis e passa a englobar também produtos têxteis ressignificados ou
reciclados, já existentes e vendidos em lojas de segunda mão ou independentes/de pequenos
produtores. Embora considere a importância dos meios produtivos para mudanças sistêmicas
na indústria da moda, esta investigação tem interesse nas mudanças no campo do consumo de
moda, especificamente por um tipo particular de comportamento do consumidor
contemporâneo denominado ‘consumidor crítico’ (Gabriel e Lang, 2006; Sassatelli, 2006).
Este perfil de consumidor possui um descentramento de si e da sua busca identificatória, numa
crescente responsabilização da sua ação na preservação do ambiente e na garantia da justiça
social dos atores envolvidos nas cadeias de produção de bens e serviços. Foram realizadas 29
entrevistas compreensivas com informantes conectados ao campo do consumo e 7 contatos
com o meio produtivo (3 entrevistas compreensivas com produtores e 4 observações
participantes em locais conectados à esfera da produção). Tais dados foram analisados a partir
de um quadro conceitual composto pela Sociologia Compreensiva (Maffesoli, 1988) e a
Sociologia do Consumo (Bauman, 1988; Miller, 1987; Warde, 2014), especificamente os
novos perfis do consumo contemporâneo (Maffesoli, 1988; Sassatelli, 2006; Lang e Gabriel,
2006; Warde, 2017) e sua interligação com a moda. Assim, busco compreender os significados,
justificações, práticas e constrangimentos que são percebidos no consumo de moda sustentável
por parte de um grupo de consumidores críticos residentes na cidade de São Paulo. Através da
análise dos dados percebeu-se que muitas das práticas de consumo crítico no campo da moda
sustentável acontecem de forma inconsciente, não deliberada ou reflexiva por parte dos
entrevistados, semelhante ao ‘ambientalismo acidental’ (Hitchings, Collins e Day, 2015), cuja
importância não perde valor visto que tais práticas contribuem para a diminuição do impacto
do seu consumo em geral, e em particular do consumo de moda. Além disso, constatou-se que
as práticas cotidianas dos consumidores são envoltas em processos de negociação entre os
preceitos morais e éticos versus a disponibilidade de ofertas pelo mercado e os desejos
emocionais e/ou estéticos.
The pace of production and consumption in contemporary capitalism exhausts the planet's resources, whether in the extraction of natural resources used as raw materials or in the contamination caused by industrial waste. These imbalances also impact the social area, as a result of the pressure and speed imposed by the markets' organization, in a system based on unsustainable exponential growth in search of quick profit. One of the fields where this reality is very visible is fashion directed to mass consumption, which is called 'Fast Fashion', characterized by fast production, great variety of products and low quality (Joy et al, 2012), where there are no concerns about the impacts in the environmental (such as the use of aggressive chemicals and its consequences on soil and water pollution) and social fields (such as problematic labor relations, e.g. labor regimes analogous to slavery). Sustainability has been worked on as an alternative to mitigate such impacts, through a multidimensional perspective that encompasses the fields involved in the production and consumption processes. In this sense, new ways of organizing the fashion field have emerged, namely through sustainable fashion, whose principles go far beyond the idea of new products made from sustainable raw materials and start to encompass also resigned or recycled textile products, which already exist and are sold in second-hand stores or independent/small producers. While considering the importance of productive means for systemic changes in the fashion industry, this research is interested in changes in the field of fashion consumption, specifically by a particular type of contemporary consumer behavior called 'critical consumer' (Gabriel and Lang, 2006; Sassatelli, 2006). This consumer profile has a decentering view of themself and their own identification search, in a growing accountability of his action in preserving the environment and ensuring the social justice of the actors involved in the production chains of goods and services. A total of 29 comprehensive interviews were conducted with informants connected to the consumption field and 7 contacts with the productive environment (3 comprehensive interviews with producers and 4 participant observations in places connected to the production sphere). Such data were analyzed from a conceptual framework composed by the Comprehensive Sociology (Maffesoli, 1988) and the Sociology of Consumption (Bauman, 1988; Miller, 1987; Warde, 2014), specifically the new profiles of contemporary consumption (Maffesoli, 1988; Sassatelli, 2006; Lang and Gabriel, 2006; Warde, 2017) and its interconnection with fashion. Thus, I seek to understand the meanings, justifications, practices and constraints that are perceived in the consumption of sustainable fashion by a group of critical consumers residing in the city of São Paulo. Through data analysis it was realized that many of the critical consumption practices in the field of sustainable fashion happen in an unconscious, not deliberate or reflective way by the respondents, similar to 'accidental environmentalism' (Hitchings, Collins and Day, 2015), whose importance does not lose value since such practices contribute to the decrease of the impact of their consumption in general, and in particular of fashion consumption. Moreover, it was found that consumers' everyday practices are enmeshed in processes of negotiation between moral and ethical precepts versus the availability of offerings by the market and emotional and/or aesthetic desires.
The pace of production and consumption in contemporary capitalism exhausts the planet's resources, whether in the extraction of natural resources used as raw materials or in the contamination caused by industrial waste. These imbalances also impact the social area, as a result of the pressure and speed imposed by the markets' organization, in a system based on unsustainable exponential growth in search of quick profit. One of the fields where this reality is very visible is fashion directed to mass consumption, which is called 'Fast Fashion', characterized by fast production, great variety of products and low quality (Joy et al, 2012), where there are no concerns about the impacts in the environmental (such as the use of aggressive chemicals and its consequences on soil and water pollution) and social fields (such as problematic labor relations, e.g. labor regimes analogous to slavery). Sustainability has been worked on as an alternative to mitigate such impacts, through a multidimensional perspective that encompasses the fields involved in the production and consumption processes. In this sense, new ways of organizing the fashion field have emerged, namely through sustainable fashion, whose principles go far beyond the idea of new products made from sustainable raw materials and start to encompass also resigned or recycled textile products, which already exist and are sold in second-hand stores or independent/small producers. While considering the importance of productive means for systemic changes in the fashion industry, this research is interested in changes in the field of fashion consumption, specifically by a particular type of contemporary consumer behavior called 'critical consumer' (Gabriel and Lang, 2006; Sassatelli, 2006). This consumer profile has a decentering view of themself and their own identification search, in a growing accountability of his action in preserving the environment and ensuring the social justice of the actors involved in the production chains of goods and services. A total of 29 comprehensive interviews were conducted with informants connected to the consumption field and 7 contacts with the productive environment (3 comprehensive interviews with producers and 4 participant observations in places connected to the production sphere). Such data were analyzed from a conceptual framework composed by the Comprehensive Sociology (Maffesoli, 1988) and the Sociology of Consumption (Bauman, 1988; Miller, 1987; Warde, 2014), specifically the new profiles of contemporary consumption (Maffesoli, 1988; Sassatelli, 2006; Lang and Gabriel, 2006; Warde, 2017) and its interconnection with fashion. Thus, I seek to understand the meanings, justifications, practices and constraints that are perceived in the consumption of sustainable fashion by a group of critical consumers residing in the city of São Paulo. Through data analysis it was realized that many of the critical consumption practices in the field of sustainable fashion happen in an unconscious, not deliberate or reflective way by the respondents, similar to 'accidental environmentalism' (Hitchings, Collins and Day, 2015), whose importance does not lose value since such practices contribute to the decrease of the impact of their consumption in general, and in particular of fashion consumption. Moreover, it was found that consumers' everyday practices are enmeshed in processes of negotiation between moral and ethical precepts versus the availability of offerings by the market and emotional and/or aesthetic desires.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Consumo sustentável Moda Negociações de consumo São Paulo