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The effect of different binders on the physical properties of syndet bars:
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Atualmente tem-se observado uma crescente ligação entre a sustentabilidade e a indústria cosmética, o impacto da sustentabilidade ao longo do ciclo de vida do produto, bem como a importância de avaliar quaisquer potenciais inovações. É crucial que as empresas cosméticas acompanhem as expectativas dos consumidores, uma vez que um número crescente de pessoas tem optado por uma compra sustentável. Contudo, a indústria pode ser confrontada com desafios, particularmente na escolha de ingredientes para formular os seus produtos.
O objetivo principal deste estudo consistiu na formulação de barras de limpeza sem recurso a água, com a adição de diferentes polímeros a fim de otimizar o produto. Efetivamente, os polímeros podem contribuir para a produção de uma barra mais compacta através da preservação dos tensioativos juntos, e de potencialmente melhorar o seu desempenho em simultâneo. De modo a desenvolver barras sustentáveis e eficazes simultaneamente, avaliou-se
a influência do estearato de zinco, goma xantana, goma guar, hidroxietilcelulose, triheptanoína (MCT) e succinato diisooctílico (DCS), em diferentes concentrações, nas barras de limpeza, utilizando um método de compressão inovador via Texture Analyser. As barras foram caraterizadas in vitro quanto à sua dureza, poder de espuma, capacidade de diluição, friabilidade e consistência. Consequentemente, um questionário sensorial foi efetuado a 36
participantes, pelo que permitiu uma melhor avaliação da performance das barras por parte do consumidor. De um modo geral, a barra de limpeza que obteve melhores resultados foi a que continha goma xantana, enquanto a formulação com triheptanoína revelou afastar-se mais das caraterísticas desejadas.
Os pilares desta estratégia incluem a utilização de formulações sem água, embalagens biodegradáveis, e menos custos de produção e consequentemente menor impacto ambiental. Ao desenvolver formulações inovadoras utilizando este método de compressão, podemos estar a dar mais um passo em direção à sustentabilidade.
Futuramente pode ser considerada a utilização deste método na adição de substâncias ativas destinadas ao tratamento de doenças dermatológicas. Também seria possível considerar uma mistura de polímeros, com o intuito de melhorar mais significativamente as características do produto, uma vez que cada polímero pode apresentar um comportamento diferente, contudo juntos podem contribuir para um produto mais benéfico para o consumidor.
Currently there has been a growing association between sustainability and the cosmetics industry, the impact of sustainability throughout the product life cycle as well as the importance of assessing any potential innovations. It is crucial that cosmetic companies keep up with consumer expectations, as an increasing number of people is opting for sustainable purchasing. However, the industry may be faced with challenges, particularly in choosing ingredients to formulate their products. The main objective of this study was to formulate cleansing bars without the use of water, with the addition of different binders to optimise the product. Effectively, binders may contribute to the production of a more compact bar through maintaining the surfactants together, and to potentially improve their performance at the same time. In order to develop sustainable and effective bars simultaneously, the influence of different concentrations of zinc stearate, xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, triheptanoin (MCT) and diisooctyl succinate (DCS) was evaluated on the cleansing bars, using an innovative compression method via Texture Analyser. The bars were characterised in vitro for hardness, foamability, dilution capacity, friability and consistency. Therefore, a sensorial questionnaire given to 36 participants allowed a better evaluation of the bars' performance by the consumer. In general, the best performing cleanser was the one containing xanthan gum, while the formulation with triheptanoin appeared to diverge more from the desired characteristics. The pillars of this strategy include the use of waterless formulations, biodegradable packaging, less production costs and therefore less environmental impact. By developing innovative formulations using this compression method we may be taking another step towards sustainability. In the future, the addition of active substances for the treatment of dermatological diseases using this method could also be considered. From this method, it would also be possible to consider a mixture of binders in order to further improve product characteristics, as each binder may present a different behaviour, yet together might contribute to a more beneficial product for the consumer.
Currently there has been a growing association between sustainability and the cosmetics industry, the impact of sustainability throughout the product life cycle as well as the importance of assessing any potential innovations. It is crucial that cosmetic companies keep up with consumer expectations, as an increasing number of people is opting for sustainable purchasing. However, the industry may be faced with challenges, particularly in choosing ingredients to formulate their products. The main objective of this study was to formulate cleansing bars without the use of water, with the addition of different binders to optimise the product. Effectively, binders may contribute to the production of a more compact bar through maintaining the surfactants together, and to potentially improve their performance at the same time. In order to develop sustainable and effective bars simultaneously, the influence of different concentrations of zinc stearate, xanthan gum, guar gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, triheptanoin (MCT) and diisooctyl succinate (DCS) was evaluated on the cleansing bars, using an innovative compression method via Texture Analyser. The bars were characterised in vitro for hardness, foamability, dilution capacity, friability and consistency. Therefore, a sensorial questionnaire given to 36 participants allowed a better evaluation of the bars' performance by the consumer. In general, the best performing cleanser was the one containing xanthan gum, while the formulation with triheptanoin appeared to diverge more from the desired characteristics. The pillars of this strategy include the use of waterless formulations, biodegradable packaging, less production costs and therefore less environmental impact. By developing innovative formulations using this compression method we may be taking another step towards sustainability. In the future, the addition of active substances for the treatment of dermatological diseases using this method could also be considered. From this method, it would also be possible to consider a mixture of binders in order to further improve product characteristics, as each binder may present a different behaviour, yet together might contribute to a more beneficial product for the consumer.
Descrição
Trabalho Final de Mestrado Integrado, Ciências Farmacêuticas, 2022, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia.
Palavras-chave
Binders Cleansing bars Sustainability Compression Mestrado integrado - 2022