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Overview of Cosmetic Regulatory Frameworks around the World
Publication . Ferreira, Mariana; Matos, Ana; Couras, Ana; Marto, Joana; Ribeiro, Helena
To ensure safety and efficacy, cosmetic products are regulated and controlled worldwide. However, the regulatory approaches of each country may be significantly different and impact the competitiveness and economic viability of the industry. This work presents an updated review and comparison of regulatory requirements from the European Union, United States of America, Canada, Japan, People’s Republic of China and Brazil. It outlines contents such as the definition, classification and categorization of cosmetics, pre-market requirements, ingredients management, general labelling requirements, regulation of claims concerning advertisement and commercial practices, increase of animal testing and marketing bans on cosmetic products. Furthermore, it weighs the impact of regulatory differences on the safety and accessibility of these products in the mentioned regions.
Indirect consequences of coronavirus disease 2019: Skin lesions caused by the frequent hand sanitation and use of personal protective equipment and strategies for their prevention
Publication . Graça, Angélica; Martins, Ana Margarida; Ribeiro, Helena; Marto, Joana
The coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic caused by the severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2) enforced the use of hand sanitation and of personal protective equipment, such as masks and visors, especially by health-care professionals, but also by the general public. However, frequent hand sanitation and the prolonged and continuous use of personal protective equipment are responsible for constant frictional and pressure forces on skin causing lesions, the most reported being acne, facial itching, dryness, and rash. Thus, it is important to find measures to prevent skin lesions, in order to improve the quality of life of health-care professionals and of the general public. This article gathers the current information regarding measures to prevent human to human transmission of COVID-19, reviews the most common skin lesions caused by the use of hand sanitizers and different types of personal protective equipment, and the possible preventive measures that can be used on a daily basis to minimize the risk of developing skin-related pathologies. Daily skin care routines and the incorporation of a dressing between the skin and the personal protective equipment to serve as a protective barrier are some of the applied measures. Moisturizers and dressings improve the skin's ability to respond to constant aggressions. Lastly, the need for additional studies to evaluate the lubrication properties of different types of dressings is discussed. The understanding of what kind of dressing is more suitable to prevent pressure injuries is crucial to promote healthy skin and wellbeing during pandemic times.
Chemical Characterization and Bioactivity of Commercial Essential Oils and Hydrolates Obtained from Portuguese Forest Logging and Thinning
Publication . Ruas, Ana; Graça, A.; Marto, Joana; Gonçalves, Lídia; Oliveira, Ana; Silva, Alexandra Nogueira da; Pimentel, Madalena; Moura, Artur Mendes; Serra, Ana Teresa; Figueiredo, Ana Cristina; Ribeiro, Helena
Essential oils (EOs) and hydrolates (Hds) are natural sources of biologically active ingredients with broad applications in the cosmetic industry. In this study, nationally produced (mainland Portugal and Azores archipelago) EOs (11) and Hds (7) obtained from forest logging and thinning of Eucalyptus globulus, Pinus pinaster, Pinus pinea and Cryptomeria japonica, were chemically evaluated, and their bioactivity and sensorial properties were assessed. EOs and Hd volatiles (HdVs) were analyzed by GC-FID and GC-MS. 1,8-Cineole was dominant in E. globulus EOs and HdVs, and α- and β-pinene in P. pinaster EOs. Limonene and α-pinene led in P. pinea and C. japonica EOs, respectively. P. pinaster and C. japonica HVs were dominated by α-terpineol and terpinen-4-ol, respectively. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH, ORAC and ROS. C. japonica EO showed the highest antioxidant activity, whereas one of the E. globulus EOs showed the lowest. Antimicrobial activity results revealed different levels of efficacy for Eucalyptus and Pinus EOs while C. japonica EO showed no antimicrobial activity against the selected strains. The perception and applicability of emulsions with 0.5% of EOs were evaluated through an in vivo sensory study. C. japonica emulsion, which has a fresh and earthy odour, was chosen as the most pleasant fragrance (60%), followed by P. pinea emulsion (53%). In summary, some of the studied EOs and Hds showed antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and they are possible candidates to address the consumers demand for more sustainable and responsibly sourced ingredients.
Potential therapeutic of olive oil industry by-products in skin health: a review
Publication . Nunes, Andreia; Marto, Joana; Gonçalves, Lídia; Martins, Ana Margarida; Fraga, Carmo; Ribeiro, Helena
Olea europaea L. is one of the most important fruit trees in the Mediterranean countries due to its products, olive oil and table olives. However, the olive oil extraction industry produces large amounts of by-products, such as olive pomace, leaves and olive mill wastewater, which are considered harmful to the environment, having negative impacts on soil, aquatic and air ecosystems. The olive oil industry by-products are a major ecological issue mainly due to their phenolic components, such as oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol. However, olive oil industry by-products can be recovered, treated and studied for their health-promoting properties, holding great potential for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Furthermore, the recovery and treatment processes contribute to an efficient waste management and sustainability of the olive oil industry, leading to important economic benefits. The phenolic compounds extracted and obtained from these by-products present numerous health properties and can be used as antioxidant, photoprotector, anti-inflammatory and/or antimicrobial agents in wellness and therapeutics of the skin. This review highlights issues related to olive oil industry by-products and then proceeds to discuss how their beneficial biological activities make them reusable, particularly their high positive impact in treating skin disorders.
Innovative, Sugar-Free Oral Hydrogel as a Co-administrative Vehicle for Pediatrics: a Strategy to Enhance Patient Compliance
Publication . Pereira, Margarida; Cosme Silva, Filipa; Simões, Sandra; Ribeiro, Helena Margarida; Almeida, António José; Marto, Joana
Palatability and swallowability in the pediatric population are perceived as true challenges in the oral administration of medication. Pediatric patients have high sensitivity to taste and reduced ability to take solid dosage forms, which can often lead to a poor therapeutic compliance. It is crucial to find new strategies to simplify the oral administration of drugs to children. The present paper reports the development of a new hydrogel vehicle adapted to the pediatric population. Several polymers with similar properties were selected and adjustments were made to obtain the desired characteristics of the final product. The developed formulations were studied for organoleptic properties, rheology, mucoadhesion properties, preservative efficacy, and stability. Physical and chemical compatibilities between the vehicle and several drugs/medicines, at the time of administration, were also studied. Six final formulations with different polymers, odor, and color were chosen, and no known interactions with medications were observed. The proposed new oral vehicles are the first sugar-free vehicle hydrogels designed to make the intake of oral solid forms a more pleasant and safer experience for pediatric patients.
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Funding agency
Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
Funding programme
CEEC INST 2018
Funding Award Number
CEECINST/00145/2018/CP1571/CT0002