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Authors
Abstract(s)
Os produtos cosméticos representam um produto com um valor económico
significativo e um papel importante no dia a dia da população. Contudo, a indústria
cosmética também é dos setores industriais com elevado impacto ambiental e com uma
pegada hídrica consideravelmente grande. Considerando o aumento da procura pelos
consumidores de produtos mais sustentáveis, a indústria cosmética desenvolveu produtos
sólidos anidros ou com baixo teor de água. No entanto, a reconstituição do produto na casa
dos consumidores coloca algumas questões, no que concerne à qualidade e eficácia do
produto reconstituído.
O presente trabalho teve como principal objetivo estudar a influência da qualidade
da água para consumo humano na qualidade dos produtos cosméticos reconstituídos em
casa pelo consumidor. Dos vários parâmetros de qualidade da água, selecionaram-se os
parâmetros com potencial impacto na qualidade das formulações, nomeadamente, pH,
condutividade, sólidos dissolvidos totais, turvação e dureza. Estes parâmetros podem
variar consideravelmente com a zona geográfica e consequentemente originar formulações
cosméticas com características físico-químicas distintas.
O efeito dos vários parâmetros de qualidade foi previamente avaliado com soluções
padrão (dureza e soluções tampão de vários valores de pH) estudando o impacto individual
de cada parâmetro sobre alguns constituintes da formulação, nomeadamente os corantes.
O estudo completou-se com o impacto das várias águas sobre uma formulação
desenvolvida (emulsão), a qual foi reconstituída com os vários tipos de água.
As formulações foram caracterizadas quanto ao pH, tamanho da gotícula,
viscosidade e estabilidade.
A emulsão reconstituída com águas macias e médias apresentavam menor
tamanho de gotículas e maior viscosidade em relação à emulsão reconstituída com águas
duras ou muito duras. Para o mesmo produto, foi obtida uma cosmeticidade diferente,
dependendo dos parâmetros físico-químicos da água.
A utilização crescente de produtos sem água visa responder às preocupações de
sustentabilidade na indústria, mas ainda é necessário um longo caminho para garantir um
produto sustentável sem comprometer a qualidade do produto.
Cosmetic products have a significant economic value and an important role in the people's daily life. However, the cosmetics industry is also one of the industrial sectors with the biggest environmental impact, with a significant water footprint. Given the increased consumer demand for more sustainable products, the cosmetic industry has developed anhydrous or low water content solid products. However, the reconstitution of the product in the consumer’s home raises some questions regarding the quality and efficacy of the reconstituted product. The main aim of this work was to study the influence of drinking water quality on the quality of cosmetic products reconstituted at home by the consumer. Of the several parameters of water quality those with a potential impact on the quality of formulations were selected, namely, pH, conductivity, total dissolved solids, turbidity, and hardness. These parameters can vary considerably from geographical area to geographical area and consequently give rise to cosmetic formulations with different physicochemical characteristics. The effect of the various quality parameters was previously assessed with standard solutions (hardness and buffer solutions of various pH values), studying the individual impact of each parameter on certain constituents of the formulation, particularly the colorants. The study was completed with the impact of the various waters on a developed formulation (emulsion), which was reconstituted with the various types of water. The formulations were characterised in terms of pH, droplet size, viscosity, and stability. The emulsion reconstituted with very soft and medium water had smaller droplet size and higher viscosity than the emulsion reconstituted with hard or very hard water. Thus, for the same product, a different cosmeticity was obtained, depending on the physicochemical parameters of water. The increasing use of waterless products aims to respond to sustainability concerns in the industry, but there is still a long path to ensure a sustainable product without compromising product quality.
Cosmetic products have a significant economic value and an important role in the people's daily life. However, the cosmetics industry is also one of the industrial sectors with the biggest environmental impact, with a significant water footprint. Given the increased consumer demand for more sustainable products, the cosmetic industry has developed anhydrous or low water content solid products. However, the reconstitution of the product in the consumer’s home raises some questions regarding the quality and efficacy of the reconstituted product. The main aim of this work was to study the influence of drinking water quality on the quality of cosmetic products reconstituted at home by the consumer. Of the several parameters of water quality those with a potential impact on the quality of formulations were selected, namely, pH, conductivity, total dissolved solids, turbidity, and hardness. These parameters can vary considerably from geographical area to geographical area and consequently give rise to cosmetic formulations with different physicochemical characteristics. The effect of the various quality parameters was previously assessed with standard solutions (hardness and buffer solutions of various pH values), studying the individual impact of each parameter on certain constituents of the formulation, particularly the colorants. The study was completed with the impact of the various waters on a developed formulation (emulsion), which was reconstituted with the various types of water. The formulations were characterised in terms of pH, droplet size, viscosity, and stability. The emulsion reconstituted with very soft and medium water had smaller droplet size and higher viscosity than the emulsion reconstituted with hard or very hard water. Thus, for the same product, a different cosmeticity was obtained, depending on the physicochemical parameters of water. The increasing use of waterless products aims to respond to sustainability concerns in the industry, but there is still a long path to ensure a sustainable product without compromising product quality.
Description
Tese de mestrado, Qualidade Alimentar e Saúde, 2024, Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Farmácia
Keywords
Sustentabilidade Emulsões O/A Água Cosméticos anidros Cosméticos concentrados Teses de mestrado - 2024